13 Comments

The solo, young, elegant Japanese woman at Reblochon so absorbed in her eating…I may have seen her at Chez Allard in the early 90’s. I was there with two colleagues having a wonderful slow lunch. A young, solo Japanese woman sat down to eat. An entire bowl of salade de haricots, a whole canard aux olives. And more. We were quite overcome at her prodigious appetite and concentration. Oh, I long to go back.

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What joy- to celebrate life by the joy if feasting.

Thank you for this encouraging note.

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Love the phrase “like a guest to herself”! Thank you for another way to more fully appreciate experiences on my own.

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a lost chapter from adored summer read... another reminder of sold-out friends abroad trip. best wishes!

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I can taste the food through your words, always such a pleasure.

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At at Jamin in its first year and yes, it was a miraculous place.....food, ambiance, warmth....you just knew that it would ascend into the starry pantheon.

Robert Wemischner

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I just had a flashback of having to sieve potatoes through a tamis while standing in front of a French top. Worth it.

Since it became available to stream, I pretty much keep the original Japanese version of Iron Chef on in the background full stop. I always pause to watch any of the episodes where Robuchon appears as a judge, extremely interesting, especially the ones filmed in France where Sakai goes up against a young Pierre Gagnaire.

These are episodes I missed when it was only on TV years ago (along with numerous others, Alain Passard, Troisgros as a judge, etc.) Highly recommended for some interesting points of view on, and from, French chefs like Robuchon that we rarely see on screen.

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Just curious, did you know the chef at Chez Benoit long before it was sold and changed so...He was a viking-looking wondrous chef with a large moustache and incredibly creative, but, simple. Then it was bought and went wherever those places go....

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We had the master's potatoes and yes, there was butter, haha. A great chef, loved meeting him so long ago when he was just almost at the top of his career. What a Paris then....and he, of all chefs, was our favorite, hands down. Unpretentious, lovely pure food, his subtle mark on all.

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When I typed in Joël Robuchon in the wikipedia search box I got as far as "Joël Rob" and his name appeared twice in the ten entries in the pull-down that resulted, once for his name and once for his Las Vegas restaurant. Speaks volumes.

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So what with cholesterol level- life is to be treasured fully.

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What a wonderful article on meals of the past. I am always very skeptical of menus with so many offerings, especially at that level of cooking. However, they would seem to have pulled it off. My only experience was an extraordinary meal at La Pyramide in the late 60s when a beautifully designed 10 course meal was offered. I will never forget it. Thanks for your beautiful use of the English language; I have read every one of your books with great pleasure.

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I recently found the perfect salt cellar, too. It's an earthy stoneware dish by Sawyer ceramics with a wide open mouth that's slightly angled to effortlessly grab a pinch. It sits on my countertop as if it's rising up from the surface, like one of those mythical sandworms in the movie "Dune" that create spice, the universe's most essential and valuable commodity. Sounds about right!

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