I look forward to your newsletter every week, but this one was a favorite. Like everyone, I think Ms. Lewis was an absolute icon (a word overused these days but, in this case, quite appropriate) and what a gift to have links to such lovely writing about and by her. Thank you so much!
What a memorable party that was! I was so delighted by those mini ice cream cones! Not sure if I saved my menu but I do have two wine glasses etched with the name of the occasion!
I'm no one to quibble about lobster from the waters of the northeastern part of the U.S. But I do know that those eaten as close to the waters in which they once lived are markedly superior to any I've eaten an airplane flight away. My fave lobster rolls have been eaten in Maine, where, if you're lucky, you can even come across the magnificent soft-shell lobster.
You failed to mention one of her greatest accomplishments-cooking at Cafe Nicholson on the upper East Side of Manhattan in the Sixties. It was one of the most visually stunning restaurants with exquisite food. Her hot chocolate soufflé was perfection.
Could you please share more of your memories of Edna's chocolate souffle at Cafe Nicholson? I live parttime near Chapel Hill NC , where her souffle is grandfathered on the dessert menu at Fearrington House.
I’m currently knee deep in the wonderful “Edna Lewis: At the Table with an American Original” - edited by Sara B. Franklin and I *loved* seeing this post in my Substack inbox. A splendid addition to the praise-filled chorus. Thank you!
That was a great issue of Gourmet - wish I still had it. Thanks for this - and now I am craving biscuits. And we love the Fish House! Everett Whiting is a great cook.
She was amazing woman. Thank you for sharing. I was lucky enough to have cooked with her in 89/80 at Gage & Tollner and continue our friendship afterwards with letters and meetings at Union Square market. She helped form my style of humble ingredients for simple cooking.
The souffle was steaming hot covered with whipped cream (the real thing, not from a spray can!). The waiter would pierce the top and pour liquid chocolate into it. Maybe it's called Lava Cake today but then it was a masterpiece to be enjoyed slowly because it meant dinner was concluding and you never wanted the evening to end.
Ahhh! If you experienced her souffle prior to her leaving Cafe Nic in 1954, then I would absolutely love to get more details for my research focused on souffle's timeline . centered around its "Grandfathered Status" on Fearrington House (NC near Chapel Hill) dessert menu.
I'm guessing you know Clementine Paddleford poetically deemed souffle as "light as a dandelion seed in a high wind" in 1951
Did she leave in ‘54? I assumed she was there all along. I was a teenager when I started going in the mid60s. Always read the NYT and Clementine Paddleford (loved her name!).
Yes, she left Cafe Nic in 1954 (or late 1953). Cafe Nic (sans Edna) also moved to another location in the same 'hood. Owners continued to feature chocolate souffle. NY Times wrote about celebratory "bash" when they baked and served what they claimed to be their one-millionth-one -)
Wonderful Post! Ms. Lewis was a true treasure. Her contributions to Southern cuisine really can't be overestimated. I so appreciate your spotlighting her!
We had an amazing meal at Alain Chapel’s restaurant six weeks after his tragic death. The staff was determined to honor his legacy. And we were at the 30th anniversary of Chez Panisse on the Campanile Esplanade with lambs roasting on rotisseries in front of the physics building, a day that started at 1:00 pm and went on into the evening. Truly magical perfectly blue sky day.
I look forward to your newsletter every week, but this one was a favorite. Like everyone, I think Ms. Lewis was an absolute icon (a word overused these days but, in this case, quite appropriate) and what a gift to have links to such lovely writing about and by her. Thank you so much!
Thank you, thank you for a wonderful piece on cooking and food history. Enjoyed all the surprising and fascinating links. Love love love Edna.
What a memorable party that was! I was so delighted by those mini ice cream cones! Not sure if I saved my menu but I do have two wine glasses etched with the name of the occasion!
Love Edna. I’ve heard many stories through Scott
Lucky you!😊
I'm no one to quibble about lobster from the waters of the northeastern part of the U.S. But I do know that those eaten as close to the waters in which they once lived are markedly superior to any I've eaten an airplane flight away. My fave lobster rolls have been eaten in Maine, where, if you're lucky, you can even come across the magnificent soft-shell lobster.
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You failed to mention one of her greatest accomplishments-cooking at Cafe Nicholson on the upper East Side of Manhattan in the Sixties. It was one of the most visually stunning restaurants with exquisite food. Her hot chocolate soufflé was perfection.
Could you please share more of your memories of Edna's chocolate souffle at Cafe Nicholson? I live parttime near Chapel Hill NC , where her souffle is grandfathered on the dessert menu at Fearrington House.
I’m currently knee deep in the wonderful “Edna Lewis: At the Table with an American Original” - edited by Sara B. Franklin and I *loved* seeing this post in my Substack inbox. A splendid addition to the praise-filled chorus. Thank you!
That was a great issue of Gourmet - wish I still had it. Thanks for this - and now I am craving biscuits. And we love the Fish House! Everett Whiting is a great cook.
She was amazing woman. Thank you for sharing. I was lucky enough to have cooked with her in 89/80 at Gage & Tollner and continue our friendship afterwards with letters and meetings at Union Square market. She helped form my style of humble ingredients for simple cooking.
The souffle was steaming hot covered with whipped cream (the real thing, not from a spray can!). The waiter would pierce the top and pour liquid chocolate into it. Maybe it's called Lava Cake today but then it was a masterpiece to be enjoyed slowly because it meant dinner was concluding and you never wanted the evening to end.
Ahhh! If you experienced her souffle prior to her leaving Cafe Nic in 1954, then I would absolutely love to get more details for my research focused on souffle's timeline . centered around its "Grandfathered Status" on Fearrington House (NC near Chapel Hill) dessert menu.
I'm guessing you know Clementine Paddleford poetically deemed souffle as "light as a dandelion seed in a high wind" in 1951
Did she leave in ‘54? I assumed she was there all along. I was a teenager when I started going in the mid60s. Always read the NYT and Clementine Paddleford (loved her name!).
Yes, she left Cafe Nic in 1954 (or late 1953). Cafe Nic (sans Edna) also moved to another location in the same 'hood. Owners continued to feature chocolate souffle. NY Times wrote about celebratory "bash" when they baked and served what they claimed to be their one-millionth-one -)
Mutton, sassafras, pokeweed - been a while since I heard the language of my youth. Thanks for that Edna and RR.
Wonderful Post! Ms. Lewis was a true treasure. Her contributions to Southern cuisine really can't be overestimated. I so appreciate your spotlighting her!
Would give Anything for an Edna Lewis biscuit today😘
We had an amazing meal at Alain Chapel’s restaurant six weeks after his tragic death. The staff was determined to honor his legacy. And we were at the 30th anniversary of Chez Panisse on the Campanile Esplanade with lambs roasting on rotisseries in front of the physics building, a day that started at 1:00 pm and went on into the evening. Truly magical perfectly blue sky day.
Had the honor and joy of eating at Dario's restaurant in Panzano. What a delightful, charming character.