I love reading your articles. I appreciate that you are offering to continue for free. I will continue to look forward to receiving your posts because they are very special, interesting and informative.
Last week in Siem Reap Cambodia: returning, after 5 years: town has many upscale restaurants, catering to upscale tourists. Ordered a 'takeaway' choice from an attractive new venue, Treeline. BBQ eggplant. 'Plated' on a circular green palm leaf in a white styrofoam box. Delicious, outstanding, microscopic. Left me hungry: for thought behind offerings so skimpy in a country where food ingredients and labor are not costly. Should the menu read "you will want 6" or this is a visual poem, only. TakeAway: should menus generally be more forthright?
Sounds lovely - and minuscule. And certainly many menus might be more forthright.
On the other hand, they often offer TMI, and I'm grateful the trend of telling you, in minute detail, where each ingredient was sourced is finally over.
I'm curious to know if you actually enjoyed the reindeer penis and brain, and the duck brain, so "authentically" presented? All I can think of looking at those photos is the new film, "The Menu," which I think perfectly skewers this kind of culinary absurdity. I appreciate Redzepi's talent, but I will never understand why anyone would pay hundreds of dollars to be served jellied reindeer brain out of a skull.
You are the first person I have read in the wake of the Noma news to reference El Bulli and Ferran. The announcement of the closing of Noma seems like "Deja vu all over again" re: the closing of what was the predecessor #1 restaurant in the world. There is a blueprint for this...it's in Spain. Perhaps Ferran's reasons were different but the outcome seems brilliantly familiar
I think caviar-topped reindeer penis is the canary in the coalmine - that it was time for Noma to close down. I can't think of any vegetarian dishes that come close to showing such disrespect for the food we chose to eat. Well, maybe broccoli smotherered in mornay sauce or green bean casserole made with Campbell's soup.
Maybe because the patrons were right there in the restaurant wanting their food, rather than being on the other end of a phone line or (better) an electronic order so there wasn't the mad rush to cook?
Or maybe because a "boxed meal" is easier to prepare because you're cooking a predetermined set of dishes rather than having to innovate all the time?
I’m still not sure why the return to the bullying and patriarchal kitchens of the past though to be fair. Once you have been in an ordered environment with clear work process and mutual understanding surely it’s something that could be aspired to for the future 🤔
So glad you’re continuing! I love La Briffe. Enjoyed reading your thoughts re: Noma. Maybe breaking boundaries is just not sustainable for travel either, our constant desire for ‘the new’ is having an impact on Antarctica, on other wildernesses/environments. Time to find new joys in places we think we know. 🤔
I can't even begin to express the degree to which I love your writing about food. I still mourn for Gourmet. Recently, my greatest joy has come from Erin French and her Lost Kitchen. Working through years of dysfunction she has created a world where the love of food and family combine in a restaurant/life that honors what food and family should be about for us all.
I recently returned from CPH, and I gave up / cancelled on a reservation at Noma for the same menu. . . the irony being the entire impetus for this winter Scandinavian trip was the Noma reservation I secured ("one of the hardest to get in the world"). I still consider the restaurant an enticing experience, but in the end, I wanted to only pay that high-price $ for the real menu I'd enjoy ("Ocean"), and I wasn't willing to negotiate on that main element.
Instead to your point about pivoting during the pandemic, Popl, the Noma burger pandemic spot, is still thriving, and I enjoyed "a taste of Noma" in that regard. I still don't feel like I missed out, but admit, I'd like to try my luck a second time before closing to see if I can snag an "ocean reservation." We'll see! But how many do you know who have walked away from a fine dining travel destination reservation, and have still gone on to take the trip? :)
My husband and I got married in Brig, Switzerland and our two-day celebration was in a small village called Fiesch, about 30 min drive from Brig. We discovered Walliser Kanne during one of our many weekend visits to Fiesch for hiking. After we checked-in to the hotel (more like a B&B size with 5 rooms) on our way up to our room we noticed the staircase was full of culinary trophies and pictures from competitions. The owner of the hotel/restaurant, Chef Zemanek, was the captain of the Swiss Culinary team. It turned out that aside from the main dining room where a lot of traditional food and "post-hiking" snacks were served, there was a more formal dining room with a "gourmet menu". Food was outstanding and because we were one of the only two couples who dined there the chef came out at the end and met with us. We were hooked and decided that would be our venue for our wedding. We gave the chef carte blanche with the food and wine (with the only request was that he include Veuve Cliquot and Chateauneuf-du-Pape among the wines) and he did an outstanding job feeding us and our guests for two days. On one of the trips prior to the wedding, again after an excellent dinner, my husband took our dog out for the evening walk and met Chef Zemanek who was on his cigarette break. Among other things, he said how he is looking to relocate because "if he had to cook another schnitzel he would go crazy". And indeed, he did, several months later, by opening Matisse in Basel. We went there several times and then one day we read that Chef Zemanek committed suicide (article here is unfortunately in German: https://www.bzbasel.ch/basel/basel-stadt/matisse-starkoch-friedrich-zemanek-ist-verstorben-ld.1865056#!/login). When we spoke to his wife, she said that it was because Gault Millau only awarded him 14/20 points and he felt he had failed beyond repair. This is after he had the restaurant a bit over a year. This is a long-winded way to address the Noma part of your post. Many chefs see themselves (and rightly so) as artists of combining flavors and producing incredible palate sensations. I understood that in Chef Zemanek. For many chefs, the dish also becomes their canvas and, as your pictures also show, the presentation becomes part of the artistry. I cannot imagine how expensive this can be, however, timewise and everything-wise. Is this expense truly necessary and is an underestimation of what toll this exerts on both chefs and personnel a reason why some restaurants need to close? I think I understand Chef Redzepi’s need to create such elaborate presentations, but when is enough achieved? I know this is a complicated issue. I am just saddened that by the realization that being a successful chef these days comes with a physical and psychological burden, and it does not seem to be fun for them anymore. Can a balance be achieved so that we again have high quality restaurants that we go go to for decades at a time? Do you think the Troisgros brothers operate under such stress? Incidentally, like La Maison Troisgros, Walliser Kanne was also across the train station is Fiesch.
Dear Ruth,
I love reading your articles. I appreciate that you are offering to continue for free. I will continue to look forward to receiving your posts because they are very special, interesting and informative.
Thank you,
Marie Zazzi
Last week in Siem Reap Cambodia: returning, after 5 years: town has many upscale restaurants, catering to upscale tourists. Ordered a 'takeaway' choice from an attractive new venue, Treeline. BBQ eggplant. 'Plated' on a circular green palm leaf in a white styrofoam box. Delicious, outstanding, microscopic. Left me hungry: for thought behind offerings so skimpy in a country where food ingredients and labor are not costly. Should the menu read "you will want 6" or this is a visual poem, only. TakeAway: should menus generally be more forthright?
Sounds lovely - and minuscule. And certainly many menus might be more forthright.
On the other hand, they often offer TMI, and I'm grateful the trend of telling you, in minute detail, where each ingredient was sourced is finally over.
I always think about the chicken episode of Portlandia from (11!) years ago when I see TMI on the menu: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ErRHJlE4PGI
I'm curious to know if you actually enjoyed the reindeer penis and brain, and the duck brain, so "authentically" presented? All I can think of looking at those photos is the new film, "The Menu," which I think perfectly skewers this kind of culinary absurdity. I appreciate Redzepi's talent, but I will never understand why anyone would pay hundreds of dollars to be served jellied reindeer brain out of a skull.
Yes that menu is like a parody on SNL. can’t believe what ingredients some of you food people find “brilliant”.
You are the first person I have read in the wake of the Noma news to reference El Bulli and Ferran. The announcement of the closing of Noma seems like "Deja vu all over again" re: the closing of what was the predecessor #1 restaurant in the world. There is a blueprint for this...it's in Spain. Perhaps Ferran's reasons were different but the outcome seems brilliantly familiar
I went to Noma. They didn't give us any bread and about 1000 glasses of wine. We puked! The most expensive and labor-intensive vomit ever?
Noma and La Briffe both matter, each one of a singularly precious kind. So glad your gonna be still at it . . . .
La Briffe is always my first choice when there are new columns on my Sub Stack. New ideas to think about. Very happy you will continue your writing.
I think caviar-topped reindeer penis is the canary in the coalmine - that it was time for Noma to close down. I can't think of any vegetarian dishes that come close to showing such disrespect for the food we chose to eat. Well, maybe broccoli smotherered in mornay sauce or green bean casserole made with Campbell's soup.
Having some logistical issues with my credit card ATM, can I send my subscription money to you on Venmo?
I adore La Britte. I tried to pay for subscription. It’s way to complicated and I just want to get you. I will keep reading. I could mail you money
Hi Ruth,
I wonder why the military style hierarchy (old way) returned?
Why did Chefs not chose to stay with the ‘calm’ kitchen but went back to their former structure?
Thank you for your constantly inspiring writing for us to enjoy.
Xxx
Maybe because the patrons were right there in the restaurant wanting their food, rather than being on the other end of a phone line or (better) an electronic order so there wasn't the mad rush to cook?
Or maybe because a "boxed meal" is easier to prepare because you're cooking a predetermined set of dishes rather than having to innovate all the time?
I’m still not sure why the return to the bullying and patriarchal kitchens of the past though to be fair. Once you have been in an ordered environment with clear work process and mutual understanding surely it’s something that could be aspired to for the future 🤔
So glad you’re continuing! I love La Briffe. Enjoyed reading your thoughts re: Noma. Maybe breaking boundaries is just not sustainable for travel either, our constant desire for ‘the new’ is having an impact on Antarctica, on other wildernesses/environments. Time to find new joys in places we think we know. 🤔
I really love the idea of exploring the familiar and finding ways to make it new.
I can't even begin to express the degree to which I love your writing about food. I still mourn for Gourmet. Recently, my greatest joy has come from Erin French and her Lost Kitchen. Working through years of dysfunction she has created a world where the love of food and family combine in a restaurant/life that honors what food and family should be about for us all.
I am happy to subscribe if I know how much$ your are talking about. You
didn't mention that in your email.
$5/mo. or $50/yr.
I recently returned from CPH, and I gave up / cancelled on a reservation at Noma for the same menu. . . the irony being the entire impetus for this winter Scandinavian trip was the Noma reservation I secured ("one of the hardest to get in the world"). I still consider the restaurant an enticing experience, but in the end, I wanted to only pay that high-price $ for the real menu I'd enjoy ("Ocean"), and I wasn't willing to negotiate on that main element.
Instead to your point about pivoting during the pandemic, Popl, the Noma burger pandemic spot, is still thriving, and I enjoyed "a taste of Noma" in that regard. I still don't feel like I missed out, but admit, I'd like to try my luck a second time before closing to see if I can snag an "ocean reservation." We'll see! But how many do you know who have walked away from a fine dining travel destination reservation, and have still gone on to take the trip? :)
Dear Ruth,
My husband and I got married in Brig, Switzerland and our two-day celebration was in a small village called Fiesch, about 30 min drive from Brig. We discovered Walliser Kanne during one of our many weekend visits to Fiesch for hiking. After we checked-in to the hotel (more like a B&B size with 5 rooms) on our way up to our room we noticed the staircase was full of culinary trophies and pictures from competitions. The owner of the hotel/restaurant, Chef Zemanek, was the captain of the Swiss Culinary team. It turned out that aside from the main dining room where a lot of traditional food and "post-hiking" snacks were served, there was a more formal dining room with a "gourmet menu". Food was outstanding and because we were one of the only two couples who dined there the chef came out at the end and met with us. We were hooked and decided that would be our venue for our wedding. We gave the chef carte blanche with the food and wine (with the only request was that he include Veuve Cliquot and Chateauneuf-du-Pape among the wines) and he did an outstanding job feeding us and our guests for two days. On one of the trips prior to the wedding, again after an excellent dinner, my husband took our dog out for the evening walk and met Chef Zemanek who was on his cigarette break. Among other things, he said how he is looking to relocate because "if he had to cook another schnitzel he would go crazy". And indeed, he did, several months later, by opening Matisse in Basel. We went there several times and then one day we read that Chef Zemanek committed suicide (article here is unfortunately in German: https://www.bzbasel.ch/basel/basel-stadt/matisse-starkoch-friedrich-zemanek-ist-verstorben-ld.1865056#!/login). When we spoke to his wife, she said that it was because Gault Millau only awarded him 14/20 points and he felt he had failed beyond repair. This is after he had the restaurant a bit over a year. This is a long-winded way to address the Noma part of your post. Many chefs see themselves (and rightly so) as artists of combining flavors and producing incredible palate sensations. I understood that in Chef Zemanek. For many chefs, the dish also becomes their canvas and, as your pictures also show, the presentation becomes part of the artistry. I cannot imagine how expensive this can be, however, timewise and everything-wise. Is this expense truly necessary and is an underestimation of what toll this exerts on both chefs and personnel a reason why some restaurants need to close? I think I understand Chef Redzepi’s need to create such elaborate presentations, but when is enough achieved? I know this is a complicated issue. I am just saddened that by the realization that being a successful chef these days comes with a physical and psychological burden, and it does not seem to be fun for them anymore. Can a balance be achieved so that we again have high quality restaurants that we go go to for decades at a time? Do you think the Troisgros brothers operate under such stress? Incidentally, like La Maison Troisgros, Walliser Kanne was also across the train station is Fiesch.