Let me start by saying I've rarely had better cured pork than the soft, sweet American version of prosciutto they're making at Fish and Game in Hudson. Air and salt cured for two years, it has that beautiful frill of ivory fat that melts seductively as your mouth closes around it. Once its vanished you're left with the complexity of the meat itself, the intense flavor resonating long after it's gone. Don't miss it. There are lots of other lovely dishes on the current menu - it changes regularly - like this brilliant take on asparagus, which is topped with a wonderful mush of sea urchin, lime and garlic. You'll never want to eat asparagus any other way.