7 Comments

I love this article. Reminds me that people always want to discuss food at fancy restaurants with me when they find out what I do. I couldn't be less interested. You were ahead of your time with this piece. Especially about oysters, which are considered sustainable to eat.

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Just finished a lunch of cheeseburger on "guac". Licked the melty cheese off the spatula. Don't want to miss one bit of goodness. Wondering if Ruth has now embraced quinoa? It really is a nice canvas for many tasty "healthier" dishes. My 89 year-old carb living mother has come to enjoy it.

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I'm glad you mentioned bread. In my part of the world (Washington, D.C. metro area) we first discovered good bread in the 1970's with the natural food movement thanks to the hippies. I think it took until the 1990's for good bread to become popular on a national scale. And the history of good bread in this country has everything to do with what region you come from (especially Kansas, North Dakota, etc.) And bread lovers have been subjected to diet fads such as Atkins who promoted a high protein/low carb regimen in the early 2000's. This was followed by the gluten free diet fad that spread nationally from 2010 to the present. I credit the internet for keeping the interest in good bread alive. There is an international community of bread bakers who share recipes, techniques and artisan bakeries all over the world.

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Your not remembering having written this great article makes me send you the question has been bugging me since you started up la Briffe in December: Did you save your articles and only now are going through them? or do you remember them and then look them up in the magazine archives? and do you have any idea how many articles you've written? Even though this was written 32 years ago, I think your definition of "dining" is still difficult to encounter, that's why we always remember great meals (the pleasure of your company!) like the most pleasant dream. Thanks for La Briffe, it's always a pleasure!

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Bread! Years (decades?) ago, I enjoyed a long lunch while on jury duty in Foley Square. I was born and grew up nearby, and I took a stroll through my old neighborhood. The Italian bread bakery on Madison Street was open, with gorgeous braided semolina loaves in the window. The place looked unchanged from the fifties. Then I saw the sign that said it was their last day in business! Happiness and sadness at the same time. I bought a couple of loaves and enjoyed them both.

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L’Ami Jean restaurant looks like a place I'd like to eat! Rarely do I see photos of pig heads anywhere. But there they are on its website, bringing back memories of eating at Jamin in Paris in the 1980s when Joël Robuchon ruled the kitchen there. At that time, he was considered by some the world's best chef, no less. And what did I have for dinner? Pig head, but thankfully deconstructed.

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“How drastically things changed…” except the exclusion of female chefs, it seems.

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