Love your newsletter...although there's something eerie about seeing "my" recipe clippings from lo these many years ago make the leap from my big ole loose-leaf binder to the computer screen! That giblet sauce and the pot au feu are the best ever! Thank you and have a great weekend.
I thoroughly enjoyed reading your Zuni Cafe story and that it included recipes. The roast chicken is life changing! The detail about Judy advising her cooks to not chop herbs too fine, and keep them a bit rough, is wonderful.
I think you meant 1984-1996 for Joyce's tenure at Square One! The company I worked for was just down the street from the restaurant and we were regulars there, entertained many clients and had company parties, all great fun. Miss those days and the great menus! One of my bosses got to know Joyce and I remember she would deliver pretty cookie boxes on holidays.
Apologies for that terrible typo that reduced a great 12 year run to a mere 2. Square One gave me great pleasure from 1984 to 1996; I wish it was still there!
I always love the old menus! Welcome back to the bay! As a former Sacramentan, I was hoping to hear your take on Waterboy and hopefully you made it to Kru? Thanks for your newsletter! I look forward to it starting off my weekend. Safe travels!
I was lucky enough to have meals at both Kru and Waterboy. When Billy Ngo said his favorite fish was uni he really got my attention and the meal at Kru was a true sushi orgy. I had lunch at Waterboy with Darrell Corti and Kitty O'Neill and everything we ate was impressive. Great sweetbreads and the most beautiful chicken pot pie: flaky crust wrapped around a wonderfully rich filling. I also spent a few hours wandering around Corti Brothers and of course, ended up buying way too much. But who can resist the treasures in that store?
I am so glad you made it to both spots. Rick and Billy are Sacramento treasures but Darrell is a national treasure! Everytime I venture back to my hometown from the bay, I try to make it to all three places.
I love these reminiscences, including the screenshots of the old menus. I was in the restaurant/catering business in the bay area from the late seventies through the eighties, just a line cook and a baker really but very much involved with the culture, never met anyone famous, was too much of an introvert. Thank you for these articles. They bring back memories of a cherished time in my life.
I grew up being a foodie in San Francisco -- child of a foodie who “made me eat” at Square One and Le Trianon and Zuni Cafe. I knew what Chez Panisse was in 1988 -- and then finding out my roommate in my semester in Paris had worked with Alice Waters was mindblowing and rare at that time. I was 2 degrees from Alice Waters?! Was “two degrees” even a thing in the 90s? Bottom line is that as a 50+ year old woman, I just realized the meaning of the Square One name when I was staring at Joyce Goldstein’s cookbook on my shelf. Duh. And she was right. Always good to start at square one.
I wait to see it. What a beautiful couple they were, each one complementing the other so well. I read at the closing announcement that they probably would open a small restaurant or pop up. Any new on that?
Costas and I so much wish you to come to Kea and bring Hiro and Lisa with you!
Absolutely loved Hunan!! It was by far the best Chinese food I have ever had. Miss that little store so much. I used to work in Napa and if anyone found out you were going to the city, massive to-go orders soon arrived before departure. Zuni....well, one of the best ever!!
Love your newsletter...although there's something eerie about seeing "my" recipe clippings from lo these many years ago make the leap from my big ole loose-leaf binder to the computer screen! That giblet sauce and the pot au feu are the best ever! Thank you and have a great weekend.
I thoroughly enjoyed reading your Zuni Cafe story and that it included recipes. The roast chicken is life changing! The detail about Judy advising her cooks to not chop herbs too fine, and keep them a bit rough, is wonderful.
I think you meant 1984-1996 for Joyce's tenure at Square One! The company I worked for was just down the street from the restaurant and we were regulars there, entertained many clients and had company parties, all great fun. Miss those days and the great menus! One of my bosses got to know Joyce and I remember she would deliver pretty cookie boxes on holidays.
Apologies for that terrible typo that reduced a great 12 year run to a mere 2. Square One gave me great pleasure from 1984 to 1996; I wish it was still there!
Those Square One soups were always so special!
I always love the old menus! Welcome back to the bay! As a former Sacramentan, I was hoping to hear your take on Waterboy and hopefully you made it to Kru? Thanks for your newsletter! I look forward to it starting off my weekend. Safe travels!
I was lucky enough to have meals at both Kru and Waterboy. When Billy Ngo said his favorite fish was uni he really got my attention and the meal at Kru was a true sushi orgy. I had lunch at Waterboy with Darrell Corti and Kitty O'Neill and everything we ate was impressive. Great sweetbreads and the most beautiful chicken pot pie: flaky crust wrapped around a wonderfully rich filling. I also spent a few hours wandering around Corti Brothers and of course, ended up buying way too much. But who can resist the treasures in that store?
I am so glad you made it to both spots. Rick and Billy are Sacramento treasures but Darrell is a national treasure! Everytime I venture back to my hometown from the bay, I try to make it to all three places.
You always have the BEST gift ideas. Please keep them coming!
I love these reminiscences, including the screenshots of the old menus. I was in the restaurant/catering business in the bay area from the late seventies through the eighties, just a line cook and a baker really but very much involved with the culture, never met anyone famous, was too much of an introvert. Thank you for these articles. They bring back memories of a cherished time in my life.
I grew up being a foodie in San Francisco -- child of a foodie who “made me eat” at Square One and Le Trianon and Zuni Cafe. I knew what Chez Panisse was in 1988 -- and then finding out my roommate in my semester in Paris had worked with Alice Waters was mindblowing and rare at that time. I was 2 degrees from Alice Waters?! Was “two degrees” even a thing in the 90s? Bottom line is that as a 50+ year old woman, I just realized the meaning of the Square One name when I was staring at Joyce Goldstein’s cookbook on my shelf. Duh. And she was right. Always good to start at square one.
Head over to Sacramento and try Ginger Elizabeth’s! Her chocolates celebrate the abundance of produce in the valley, truly an amazing treat!
I wait to see it. What a beautiful couple they were, each one complementing the other so well. I read at the closing announcement that they probably would open a small restaurant or pop up. Any new on that?
Costas and I so much wish you to come to Kea and bring Hiro and Lisa with you!
I ate at Hunan in its first location many times when I worked in the city. Great memories of that food.
Zuni was always my go to for their chicken, frites and Caesar salad! I forwarded your last newsletter, Jonathan Waxman, to Mary Risley.
Oh ! And thank you for sharing the correct method for preparing the squid ink w brodo.
What a timely article. I just purchased the Shun Lee cookbook and you mentioned the Hunan restaurant.
any way around the paywall at the Chronicle? I'd love to read the review. TTFN
Thank you! Signed, a San Francisco native
Absolutely loved Hunan!! It was by far the best Chinese food I have ever had. Miss that little store so much. I used to work in Napa and if anyone found out you were going to the city, massive to-go orders soon arrived before departure. Zuni....well, one of the best ever!!