My first summer in Cholula, 1971, was a feast for the senses. We played dominos at the Reforma Bar, drank Dos XX like we were of age and sent the 13 year old bartender down the street for grilled chuleta tacos (25 cents each). They arrived with picante pico de gallo and warm, hand made tortillas. And when we got to the bottom of our plate of salted cacahuates, there were always a couple of dead flies left. But the one thing that still sticks to my bones is the caldo served on the corner on our way home. A deeply flavored broth with lots a squash and carrots and always a half an ear of corn. Served in a terracotta bowl, swirled with green and brown glaze, we drank our soup from the edge of the bowl and cleaned off our ears of corn, standing on the dusty street, before handing the bowl back to the lady -she wore a checkered apron and her braids fell down her back, tied together at their tips with a frayed red ribbon at her waist. She would swish the bowl clean in a bucket of water, ready for the next diner.
I finally got around to making your gluten-free egg wrapped dumplings. Absolutely delicious! Of course my grandsons were not interested so I turned them into breakfast dumplings using tiny link breakfast sausages instead of the pork filling. They absolutely love the sausage served this way. Next, I will shake it up a little bit and try to get them to eat them with the ground pork mixture. Thank you for such a wonderful idea for the dumpling wrapper.
getting excited to see you in RVA “All Henrico Reads,” flying back on March 6, 2025 from Asia to attend all the Book Groups discussing The Paris Novel!!! And now ‘Catching Up with your Writing on Substack”
I could listen to your stories from childhood forever. They were such a huge influence on my life as an early food writer, and--I just realized--a huge influence on my life as a mother.
Hi, Ruth! Do you know that the California state rock is serpentine?
We have full hills of the green rock here in Napa Valley! I’m so glad you appreciate the rock.
Have enjoyed your Mexican travels and memories..And, tho I’ll be at a big Italian family reunion during the time of our LDEI Conference re MFK in Nashville, I’ll be with you and Joan and others in spirit … Have fun introducing the “Art of Living” documentary..It’s a gem!!
I too was a child in Merida. The Lebanese and French influence was prevalent throughout the town. I had my first taste of Mexican onions, dipped in melted butter and grilled over charcoal. Horse drawn carriages and fancy street lights made Merida a truly magical place. Sadly, I contracted typhoid after buying a supposedly sealed and untainted coke in the streets of San Cristobal de las Casas ( talk about fantastic native cuisine) and ended up getting air lifted back to NY. It’s always a gamble eating off the streets in Mexico but I agree, it’s where the best food is often found. Personally I loved the food in Hecho. And breakfast at an incredible restaurant in the Instituto wall whose name escapes me….
Oh my those huesos from Bautista...drooling here. Thanks for sharing the Merida story. It called to mind Calvin's advice not to go the generic French restaurant that always gets recommended by the locals for a place to go and show off. Reminded me of the many places in greater LA that my father had discovered in his travels across the basin: handmade tortillas, tamales, pad-thai, onion rings, malts, ribs, fruiteros, Oxacan mole, a banana leaf wrapped tamale filled with a savory and sweet picadillo of pork and plantains--
Across from the big church in San Miguel is a churro and chocolate shop that will make you not mind the calories. Try it the next time you are in town. xoxo
Family recipes are the best! I will definitely be trying my hand at Rosita's mother's frijoles. I've yet to cook with epazote, but have been meaning to for a while.
My first summer in Cholula, 1971, was a feast for the senses. We played dominos at the Reforma Bar, drank Dos XX like we were of age and sent the 13 year old bartender down the street for grilled chuleta tacos (25 cents each). They arrived with picante pico de gallo and warm, hand made tortillas. And when we got to the bottom of our plate of salted cacahuates, there were always a couple of dead flies left. But the one thing that still sticks to my bones is the caldo served on the corner on our way home. A deeply flavored broth with lots a squash and carrots and always a half an ear of corn. Served in a terracotta bowl, swirled with green and brown glaze, we drank our soup from the edge of the bowl and cleaned off our ears of corn, standing on the dusty street, before handing the bowl back to the lady -she wore a checkered apron and her braids fell down her back, tied together at their tips with a frayed red ribbon at her waist. She would swish the bowl clean in a bucket of water, ready for the next diner.
I finally got around to making your gluten-free egg wrapped dumplings. Absolutely delicious! Of course my grandsons were not interested so I turned them into breakfast dumplings using tiny link breakfast sausages instead of the pork filling. They absolutely love the sausage served this way. Next, I will shake it up a little bit and try to get them to eat them with the ground pork mixture. Thank you for such a wonderful idea for the dumpling wrapper.
getting excited to see you in RVA “All Henrico Reads,” flying back on March 6, 2025 from Asia to attend all the Book Groups discussing The Paris Novel!!! And now ‘Catching Up with your Writing on Substack”
An early appreciation for cochinita pibil and Alsatian Gewürztraminer are key. They don't show that part in Inside Out.
I could listen to your stories from childhood forever. They were such a huge influence on my life as an early food writer, and--I just realized--a huge influence on my life as a mother.
Hi, Ruth! Do you know that the California state rock is serpentine?
We have full hills of the green rock here in Napa Valley! I’m so glad you appreciate the rock.
Have enjoyed your Mexican travels and memories..And, tho I’ll be at a big Italian family reunion during the time of our LDEI Conference re MFK in Nashville, I’ll be with you and Joan and others in spirit … Have fun introducing the “Art of Living” documentary..It’s a gem!!
Best always from Toni Allegra
Did you mention your serpentine counter in your books? I remember reading about it and my geologist husband loved the idea!
I too was a child in Merida. The Lebanese and French influence was prevalent throughout the town. I had my first taste of Mexican onions, dipped in melted butter and grilled over charcoal. Horse drawn carriages and fancy street lights made Merida a truly magical place. Sadly, I contracted typhoid after buying a supposedly sealed and untainted coke in the streets of San Cristobal de las Casas ( talk about fantastic native cuisine) and ended up getting air lifted back to NY. It’s always a gamble eating off the streets in Mexico but I agree, it’s where the best food is often found. Personally I loved the food in Hecho. And breakfast at an incredible restaurant in the Instituto wall whose name escapes me….
Oh my those huesos from Bautista...drooling here. Thanks for sharing the Merida story. It called to mind Calvin's advice not to go the generic French restaurant that always gets recommended by the locals for a place to go and show off. Reminded me of the many places in greater LA that my father had discovered in his travels across the basin: handmade tortillas, tamales, pad-thai, onion rings, malts, ribs, fruiteros, Oxacan mole, a banana leaf wrapped tamale filled with a savory and sweet picadillo of pork and plantains--
Across from the big church in San Miguel is a churro and chocolate shop that will make you not mind the calories. Try it the next time you are in town. xoxo
Family recipes are the best! I will definitely be trying my hand at Rosita's mother's frijoles. I've yet to cook with epazote, but have been meaning to for a while.