17 Comments

So excited to see Birch getting recognition! Just a note - it’s located in Milwaukee, WI.

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Thanks so much Kat. I KNOW Birch is in Milwaukee - and don't know how that happened!

Kyle spent a lot of time telling us how much he loves living there. And where is my fact-checker when I need him?

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I would like to highly recommend the book and film "Farming While Black". I think it's a fascinating peek into the future of farming, BIPOC food cultures, and a way forward that takes us away from corporate food production. We just showed the film at the Port Townsend Film Fest (Port Townsend, WA). Tremendous response.

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Aside from agreeing with your perspective, it’s interesting to note the parallels with other areas of the food industry and the relationships that ensue.

I began working in top end London restaurants just as chefs ventured forth from the kitchen to the screen and print. It changed everything almost overnight.

Food also broke free from the everyday part of life and became revolutionised into a chore for the engine of convenience to revolutionise.

All of a sudden there was a detachment that is slowly driving food to come full circle and be given the chance to rise into popular culture, driven by a hole left by itself in our connection with life and living.

To write about food is to observe the human condition, life and all its riches. For food is what sustains more than just our bodies.

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Been a big fan ever since I heard about your first visit to 112 Eatery in the Warehouse District of Minneapolis. This is an amazing piece of writing, which I am sharing with my group of Foodies. As a musicologist, I appreciate the importance of the history that you have provided in this well-written nutshell. I'm thankful for Substack, which brings important writer/historians like you, into my world.

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Can I nominate Ann Hood's "Kitchen Yarns" for a mention of post-2018 books worth reading?

But seriously, pre-2018 and no Trillin? My search stopped at "trillion." (an under-count, if you ask me)

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All of this is truly awesome. If only more people were interested in these topics, cooking, eating, and eating together.

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You paved the way, Ruth, you and Gourmet, and whoever it was that kept republishing MFK Fisher in paperback. Not tv, not the internet. Sure they kept things rolling along—afterwards!

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As always, your words are a pleasure to read. Saved to follow up on the links.

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I got into a big argument in culinary school in 2004 because I felt you had to know the history of what you were cooking , where the food came from, and why it evolved. It was a losing discussion so I decided to just go to the region where this cheese was from and ended up in Normandy after graduating to experience the area for myself. Now I hope this point of view isn't put down and is fostered. I read food writing and have for many, many years before culinary night school..lots of tears driving home smelling of garlic and fish...later to tackle making my own kimchee and reading food history Thank you for this commentary!

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Sep 28·edited Sep 28

I wish you could get your message to all people who eat food in Pennsylvania--especially the born-and-raised. They still think every meal has to have steak or hamburgers and potatoes. It's suicidally disheartening for those of us who work in the industry. And I write this as someone who was born in, raised in, grew up in, and continue to live in Pennsylvania!

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Love this article! The American Academy of Rome would love to have you visit! Their kitchen is called the Rome Sustainable Food Project And they take food more seriously than almost anybody. Founded by Alice Waters 17 years ago.

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I have never been able to get into feta, though I've tried—but the ricotta-filled pasta with corn, jalapenos and some other cheese sounds pretty great.

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I think you meant the gazpacho vinegar for the salad dressing. Either way, I will seek these vinegars out...I adore Jose Andres. Thank you for sharing your insights, as always!

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José has a couple of great Substacks, BTW

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So glad you got to experience the magic of Birch! We are lucky to have the restaurant here, in Milwaukee. Also happening in Milwaukee this weekend, Milwaukee Film is showing Food and Country on Sunday morning. Come back to Milwaukee sometime soon!

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Very well written post Ruth, can't wait to see your movie and read the links to the articles you enclosed.. cheers David

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