In one of the best lines ever written about food, Clifton Fadiman called cheese “milk’s leap to immortality.” That’s how I felt about the roasted beet at Agern. These are vegetables that have been deeply understood, in the best sense, by the chef. It’s as if Gunnar Gislason knows what tubers dream of, understanding that carrots, weary of their simple orangeness, long to be considered complex. He knows that kohlrabi resents being shunted aside, beets are convinced they’re destined for stardom, and pine needles yearn to show off their sweet side.
Nordic Fantasy
Nordic Fantasy
Nordic Fantasy
In one of the best lines ever written about food, Clifton Fadiman called cheese “milk’s leap to immortality.” That’s how I felt about the roasted beet at Agern. These are vegetables that have been deeply understood, in the best sense, by the chef. It’s as if Gunnar Gislason knows what tubers dream of, understanding that carrots, weary of their simple orangeness, long to be considered complex. He knows that kohlrabi resents being shunted aside, beets are convinced they’re destined for stardom, and pine needles yearn to show off their sweet side.