The Most Beautiful Dish

He calls it "The Ugly Stuff," but when Michael Cimarusti's plate arrived last night at Providence, my first impulse was to try and pin it to my jacket like a beautiful brooch. An insane tangle of abalone, uni, geoduck and caviars, it came garnished with little blue borage flowers and a handful of sprightly herbs. What you can't see: a custardy layer of  lightly smoked sauce.  (It was not, however the most delicous dish: that honor went to the sea urchin and eggs, a dish so intense, so nuanced, so  decadently delicious that each tiny bite seemed like its own little universe.)