The Friendliest Three Star Restaurant
Also, an inexpensive kitchen tool that will change your life. And a giveaway of my forthcoming novel.
I wrote about Mauro Colagreco last year, after one of the most intoxicating meals of my life. You can read about this warm, talented chef here. Ever since that meal, I’ve been dying to go back.
It’s not just that the restaurant is lovely, the view fantastic and the extremely creative food delicious. It’s that this restaurant is unlike any other three-star establishment I’ve experienced. All of those exalted establishments are beautifully appointed, enormously expensive and filled with suit-wearing waiters (yes, the women too), who are invariably polite, attentive and correct. What sets Mirazur apart is the sheer warmth of the welcome. You feel that the people here are happy, and they want you to be happy too.
Last year we were there for a Flower menu. This year it was Roots, and when I walked in to find tables decorated with beets, potatoes, carrots and onions I wondered how those homely roots could possibly live up to the beauty of the flowers.
Then this arrived… and I was enchanted. Carved radishes filled with trout roe gleamed and glistened, lovely as jewels.
Then there was this little enchantment fashioned from radishes and turnips which - like all the fruits and vegetables - come from the gardens surrounding the restaurant.
This vitelotte - blue potatoes with anchovies in a lardo coat, reminded me of something Magritte might have painted.
Beets - always the beauties of the garden - have never looked more glamorous than they do in Mauro’s hand
….unless it’s when they’re dressed in a cloak made of caviar and cream.
Mauro coaxes unexpected flavors from familiar foods. But the next dish simply made me moan. I was so entranced with this tumble of textures and tastes that I ate it in a dreamlike state, so I can’t show you the trembling, barely warm oysters and just-dug potatoes hiding beneath that cloud of rich foam.
Black garlic seemed ecstatic to find itself snuggling up to foie gras; garlic has never seemed so sexy.
Beneath these leeks hides the catch of the day, red snapper swathed in the most luxurious hollandaise.
Could carrots possibly compete? Take a look.
Wasabi, green apple and yogurt make a very refreshing sorbet
There was much more…. but the showstopper was this beet birthday cake.
Which concealed a few inner secrets…
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When Nancy Silverton tells you she’s just found the perfect vegetable peeler, the only thing to do is order one.
She’s right. I love my new Kai select 100 peeler; it might even give me the confidence to attempt some of the dishes above….
If you would like to be an early reader of my new book, here’s your chance. Starting tomorrow Goodreads will have 50 galleys to give away.
Here’s the link: it will go live on Saturday.