The Dreamers

A visionary restaurant that was ahead of its time. The best kitchen scissors. And the easiest appetizer for a crowd.

John Hudspeth, who later went on to open Bridge Creek Restaurant, first told me about The New Boonville Hotel. “You have to go see it,” he said, “they raise everything they serve themselves.”

I remember the ride north very vividly; Marion Cunningham drove, winding up Route One. (Marion always wanted to drive the car). We were a small group: Judy Rodgers, Alice Waters, Stephen Singer and me. We pulled over every fifteen minutes or so because Alice, who was pregnant, found the curves difficult. It was a great relief to finally reach the restaurant.

But the ride was worth it. Vernon and Charlene Rollins had created a warm little oasis with memorable food. I can still taste Charlene’s BLT, the bread just out of the oven, the mayonnaise rich with their own eggs, the just-picked tomatoes still warm from the sun, the bacon from their own pigs.

Every time I go to Blue Hill at Stone Barns I think about The New Boonville Hotel. It was, for its time, a very radical idea to raise everything you served, and we were all enchanted. But the restaurant was sadly underfunded, a dream that couldn’t last. In 1986 the Rollins’ left Boonville behind. They eventually moved to Oregon to open New Sammy’s Cowboy Bistro, a beloved restaurant that survived until 2020 when it was destroyed in the Rogue Valley fire.

What happened to the restaurant in Boonville? Today it is the Restaurant at the Boonville Hotel, which has an equally interesting pedigree. When Don and Sally Schmitt sold The French Laundry to Thomas Keller (“the Napa Valley was getting too chichi for us,” Sally said), they decamped to Boonville and opened The Apple Farm. Their son Johnny and his wife bought the nearby hotel, which had been boarded up for a couple of years. Today Sally’s grandson, Perry Hoffman, is the restaurant’s chef. Incidentally, Sally has a cookbook coming out in April, and given her history, Six California Kitchens is sure to be a treat.

Charlene made such fantastic food. I especially remember the fresh noodles with smoked asparagus and ham. The recipe (which I printed in Comfort Me with Apples) calls for 18 egg yolks!

For years I read love-letters to Joyce Chen Kitchen Scissors, and I’ll admit I was skeptical. But they really are impressive. They cut through chicken bones much better than my poultry sheers, but they cut paper equally well. They’re a very welcome addition to my kitchen; I’m just sorry I held out for so long.

Poor Man’s Tarte Flambée

This was a big favorite at Gourmet, but around our house it’s known as “Robert’s Cheese Toast” because my friend Robert likes it so much. The truth is, everybody I know loves this old-fashioned American classic, which makes it the perfect snack for a Super Bowl party. No matter how much I make, it always vanishes in a flash. Which is why there is no photograph: every drop had disappeared before I thought to get out my camera. 

Coarsely grate or chop a quarter pound of extra-sharp white cheddar. Chop a quarter pound of cold uncooked bacon and mix it in with the cheddar. Mince half a small white onion and add that, along with a tablespoon of well drained bottled horseradish. Sprinkle in a quarter teaspoon of salt and a few good grinds of black pepper. 

Spread this onto 6 or 7 slices of thin white bread (Pepperidge Farm is perfect), set them on a baking sheet and freeze for 15 minutes. Or longer; I like to keep a few slices in the freezer in case unexpected guests arrive.

Cut off the crusts and then cut each toast in quarters. Bake in a preheated 375 degree oven for 20 minutes or so, until everything has melted into a delicious golden goo.  

This is enough for 4 or 5 people.  

Click HERE for a printable recipe