There are many great cookbook writers, but at this time of year Elizabeth David is my favorite. Her recipes depend on nothing so much as perfect produce. She collects these gorgeous specimens, and allows them to speak for themselves.It would be foolish to attempt her Mediterreanean recipes in the middle of a snowstorm, but right now they're elemental and completely satisfying.
High summer is the time for one of my all-time David favorites. You simply take tomatoes, slice them, and cover them with good thick cream. That's it. You won't believe how delicious they are. My only embellishment? A little bit of basil.
Tomatoes and Cream
3 ripe tomatoes
sea salt
freshly ground pepper
¼ cup fresh heavy cream
5 basil leaves, shredded (optional)
1. Stack the basil leaves and roll them tightly. Slice crosswise into thin shreds and immerse them in the cream.
2. Slice the tomatoes into rounds and sprinkle liberally with good salt and freshly ground pepper.
3. Pour the cream mixture over the tomatoes. Sprinkle with the shredded basil.
Try not to lick the plate....