Notes from Juneau

The air here is so invigorating that you gulp it down like food.  Crisp, cool, completely refreshing. 

There's a waterfall next to the glacier just outside of town, and the rushing sound, the calling birds, the ice melting beneath your feet becomes a natural symphony.

Then there's the food....

Tracy's Crab Shack, where you sit on the water, a huge cruise ship rising out of the water behind you, looming like some nightmare urban vision, as you crack crabs and drink beer.

The giant crabs are regal, tender, and so sweet you find yourself cracking one claw and then another, eager for more of this amazing flavor, knowing you're not likely to encounter anything so delicious soon again.  The snow crab are wonderful too. The Dungeness, oddly golden here, can't hold a candle to the big guys.  And still....

They serve the crabs with melted butter and lemon.  You don't need either. This is fantastic food, all by itself.

It's good to be here.....