Napa Valley, Mid-Eighties

Looking for wrapping paper the other day, I came upon a small trove of old menus from St. Helena, when it was a quieter place than it is today.

The original French Laundry, under Don and Sally Schmitt, was a lovely, simple place much beloved by local winemakers. (Don was also the town mayor.) They had the best wine list: everyone around them was deeply represented.  And they served wonderful California food.

Mustard's was another beloved local establishment.  Cindy Pawlcyn had her finger on the food pulse; she once called her place a "deluxe truckstop." And unlike most of the old places in the Valley, Mustard's is still going strong, still pleasing people.

Miramonte was more representative of what the tourists wanted...

And then there was Doidge's.