Napa Valley, Mid-Eighties
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Looking for wrapping paper the other day, I came upon a small trove of old menus from St. Helena, when it was a quieter place than it is today.
The original French Laundry, under Don and Sally Schmitt, was a lovely, simple place much beloved by local winemakers. (Don was also the town mayor.) They had the best wine list: everyone around them was deeply represented. And they served wonderful California food.
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Mustard's was another beloved local establishment. Cindy Pawlcyn had her finger on the food pulse; she once called her place a "deluxe truckstop." And unlike most of the old places in the Valley, Mustard's is still going strong, still pleasing people.
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Miramonte was more representative of what the tourists wanted...
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And then there was Doidge's.
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