James Beard's Favorite Shop
Plus my favorite Beard recipe. A forgotten American classic. And a classic old menu.
I just read an article about the new Williams-Sonoma retail shop that is opening in the Farmer’s Market in Los Angeles. It made me think about what fun it was to visit the quirky, shy and wonderful Chuck Williams in his beautiful San Francisco home almost forty years ago. Bonus: his good friend James Beard came along for the ride.
My favorite James Beard recipe is this very simple - and very American - tomato pie. I will never forget the first time I met James Beard. I was in my early twenties, and when I was introduced to the great man I told him that my husband and I loved his tomato pie.
He looked at me with the most sardonic air. “Oh really?” he drawled. And turned away in search of more interesting companions.
James Beard’s Tomato Pie
Begin by making biscuit dough. (I like buttermilk biscuits for this recipe, although any biscuit will do – even the ones that are in the freezer case of your supermarket.)
2 cups flour
2 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/3 cup butter.
Chopped parsley
3/4 cups buttermilk.
4-6 ripe tomatoes, thickly sliced.
salt
pepper.
2 tablespoons shredded basil
1 1/2 cups mayonnaise
1 cup grated Cheddar
Preheat the oven to 375 degrees.
Combine the dry ingredients.
Cut in the butter with two knives or a pastry blender until it is the size of peas. Add the chopped parsley (mostly because it looks pretty). Mix in the buttermilk until the dough holds together, turn onto a floured surface and knead for a few minutes. Pat it into the bottom and sides of a 9 inch pie pan.
Cover the biscuits with the sliced tomatoes. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Shower a couple of tablespoons of shredded basil on top.
Mix the mayonnaise with the grated cheese and spread the mixture on top.
Bake at 375 for about 35 minutes, or until it is golden brown.
You know about maple syrup, and cane syrup and even agave syrup. But cider syrup, once a major American sweetener, has all but disappeared.
It’s my favorite of the syrups because it has enough acidity to balance the sweetness. It has a fruity complexity that adds a little zing to a dish. I use it in everything: beans, stews, as a glaze for a tart. And it’s fantastic on pancakes.
Cider syrup became ubiquitous during the Civil War and was pretty much destroyed by Prohibition. If you’re interested, I wrote about it here. And if you want to taste my favorite brand, Carr’s Cider Syrup, you can find it here.
Since we seem to be all-American this week, here’s an adorable little blast from the past.
I had never cooked before I moved to San Francisco in the late '60s, when I discovered things I'd never eaten before -- mushrooms, garlic, artichokes, even salads. I don't remember how I found it, but I signed up for the Williams-Sonoma catalogue, which came with wonderful recipes and tips on how to use the unique tools pictured in it. Before I even owned a cookbook, that catalogue taught me so much. I'd save up for my little purchases from the catalogue. In those days, I admired more than used them! Now, all these years later, I miss those catalogues. This article reminded me of how much W-S has been a part of my cooking though. Thank you!
Memories! I worked in the Williams-Sonoma Store at South Coast Plaza (later in the SF store). Will never forget Mr. Williams and Mr. Beard spending the afternoon in the store for a book signing and cooking demo. I cherish my signed books of James Beard.