Gift Guide 2017: My Favorite Anchovies

I use a lot of anchovies; I prefer them to salt in many vegetable dishes - they add a wonderful dash of umami - and I add them to the sauteed onions when I begin the dish.  Worry them about and they disappear, leaving behind just the ghost of flavor.

But there are so many terrible anchovies on the market! Little wonder many people disdain them.

I've finally found a favorite: Nettuno anchovies packed in salt.  They come whole, so you have to filet them yourself, which merely increases the pleasure.  Here's a video showing you how to do it.

What makes these anchovies so special?  They're made by a family in a small Italian village; they catch their fish at the peak of the season and salt them for five months.  The result is an anchovy that is not simply salty, but has a special sweetness. I often find myself popping a few into my mouth - they're that good.  And this time of year I give them to friends in an attempt to share the pleasure