Children of the Clouds - And Other Wonders

Fresh sea cucumber.  Hairy crab. Cod sperm. Huge live shrimp, legs wiggling. Marinated mackerel. Fresh bamboo shoots...

Yesterday I had a truly memorable meal at the venerable Kiriko in L.A.  It's the kind of meal I wish I could go back and have again today. And I would - if I weren't on my way to the Charleston Wine and Food Festival.

The Japanese call shirako - which is milt, or the sperm sac of the male cod- "children of the clouds" a euphemism that always thrills me.  The substance itself also thrills me.  It has an extraordinary texture - pillow soft, tender, almost liquid but yet not - and a rich, gentle taste.  That's it in the bowl above, lightly poached.

Kiriko also sets it on sheets of kelp and grills it.  The result is a kind of savory marshmallow; utterly irresistible.

But everything we ate was memorable, from this fresh hairy crab

to these crisp, slightly crunch slices of lotus root

and these firefly squid - no bigger than a fingernail but packing big flavor.

I love the giant shrimp, the flesh translucent, the flavor clean, bracing and yet sweet...

And it's head, fried, all crackling tentacle and soft fat

Fresh sea cucumber is quite a change if you're accustomed to the dried version served in Chinese restaurants.  This has the most astonishing texture, simultaneously soft and chewy.  (It's all texture, very little taste.)

And if you're a lover of saba - Japanese mackerel - don't miss Kiriko's version.

We had some traditional sushi as well.  Wonderful uni.  And this sparkling kohada, all shiny silver scales and deep, full flavor.

To finish up?  You might opt for the traditional tamago.  As for me, please give me a handroll with cucumber, shiso and umeboshi.  The perfect finale to a pretty perfect meal.