Holiday in New York

Massimo Bottura comes to town. Oysters in cream. And more gifts you surely haven't thought of.

Last Monday New York was at its glittering winter best. The sun was shining, the air was crisp, and I found myself walking down one street after another, unwilling to go inside.

Suddenly I found myself at Rockefeller Center, drawn, of course, by the tree. It’s beautiful, but then it always is - and stopping in for lunch at the new Jupiter (from the King Street women). Lunch was wonderful: I was particularly enamored of the fried zucchini because the thin sticks arrived piping hot, at the exact moment when each bite produces an audible crunch before filling your mouth with a soft, plush, nearly melted interior. There was also this unexpectedly delicious combination of roasted squash with spinach, chiles and mozzarella. Who knew how much these four were longing to meet?

Afterwards I wandered down Fifth Avenue looking in the windows of all the shops. And then - I was so close - I stopped in at the Oyster Bar just to catch a whiff of their iconic oyster stew.

It reminded me how much I love my city. And it made me think about this article I wrote six or seven years ago when someone - who? - asked me to list my favorite places to eat in New York.

Another great thing about this city? It’s still true.

I’m a New Yorker, so some of my favorite places are pure nostalgia. I love the counter at the Oyster Bar, where the same silent men have been making incredible oyster stew for most of my lifetime. Just the warm, round smell of that stew reminds me of my childhood. Watching the cooks stir up their concoctions in those fantastic old steam kettles I become six again, and I have to run outside and whisper into the magical wall. (Initiating your kids into the secret of the Oyster Bar's whispering wall is an ancient New York tradition.)

I like Gray’s Papaya hot dogs for the same reason. This is, to me, the purest flavor of New York. I even like the papaya drink (although I suspect you have to be a native to appreciate the taste.)

For new restaurants, my favorite is Atomix; it is an astonishing homage to the culture of the chef’s native Korea. A beautiful experience in every way. (This is still true, although the restaurant, no longer new, has become one of the most celebrated restaurants in the world. It is now number 8 on the Fifty Best Restaurants List.) Favorite new restaurant of 2023? I’m pretty sure it would be Sailor - because I’ve loved every restaurant April Bloomfield ever opened. But sadly, I haven’t gotten there yet.

Estela is another favorite; Ignacio Mattos is a fascinating chef who never puts a foot wrong. His food seems simple, but in his hands an ordinary salad becomes exciting and new.

But for a taste of the future – and a modicum of hope – there’s nothing like Blue Hill at Stone Barns. Everything is raised right here, and everything is recycled. In this elegant atmosphere Dan Barber aims to serve more than simply a great meal: his goal is to offer you food for thought that will linger long after the flavors have become mere memories.

Since I mentioned the oyster stew at The Oyster Bar - and since it’s oyster season - I thought you might like the recipe.

It’s super simple and extremely satisfying.

Oyster Stew for Two

Carefully open a dozen and a half oysters and save the liquor. Combine the oyster liquor with ¼ cup of bottled clam juice in a saucepan, along with 2 tablespoons of Worcestershire sauce, 2 tablespoons of butter, ½ teaspoon of paprika and 1/4 teaspoon of celery salt. Bring it just to the boil over low heat and add one cup half and half. Gently add the oysters, lower the heat a bit and cook just until the oysters’ edges begin to curl.

Transfer to a bowl, add a pat of butter and a sprinkle of paprika.

On Monday night I had the enormous pleasure of interviewing Massimo Bottura and Lara Gilmore at the 92nd Street Y. They’re touring for their wonderful new book, Slow Food Fast Cars, which is about the small hotel they’ve recently opened, Casa Maria Luigia. There is no place on earth quite like it.

The night before Massimo and his crew cooked dinner at The Grill. This Pasta a Pesto in Abstract, a riff on a classic Modenese dish, was the first course.

Then came food noir, Not a Mussel, which turned out to be the most delicious crab cake imaginable. (Massimo says he created it to make a dent in the blue crabs which are invading the Adriactic Sea. )

Massimo’s most iconic dish is The Crunchy Part of the Lasagna. (Note the wine he chose to serve it with.)

This Psychedelic Spin Painted Veal is among his most beautiful creations.

And now for the strangest dish of the evening. From Modena to Mirandola was certainly my favorite: a rich little round of cotechino sausage served on top of the classic nut cookie, Sbrisolona, and then embellished with a dollop of zabaglione. If you’re lucky enough to stay at Casa Maria Luiga, you get this for breakfast.

And finally, Massimo’s cheesecake. It does not resemble any cheesecake you’ve had before. It too is considered breakfast at the hotel.

Christmas Classic
This Talbott and Arding Christmas Pudding has become a staple in my house. Steeped in brandy, it is quite spectacular when carried to the table in flames. Bonus: it comes in a wonderful ceramic bowl that will give you years of use.

Lemon in a Bottle
I am so completely in love with this Suehiro Citrus Ponzu Sauce that I find myself pouring the bright mixture of citrus, soy and mirin into salad dressings, adding a splash to stews and using it to perk up all manner of noodles. The website offers other recipes - and while you’re at it, take a look at the entire Japanese Pantry website, which contains all manner of enticing items.

Urchin anyone?
Anyone who knows me will tell you that I am complete and total uni addict. I even have sea urchin scissors, imported from Japan, for those moments when I’m lucky enough to have fresh urchins.

Sea urchins come in many flavors. Some favor the prized Hokkaido sea urchins from Japan. Some prefer the Atlantic urchins found off the coast of Maine. But for my money, you can’t beat the rich, sweet, buttery Santa Barbara sea urchin.

If you live in southern California, your best source is the wonderful  Stephanie Mutz, who plies her trade in Santa Barbara. These days Stephanie is selling up and down the California coast, but sadly she doesn’t ship. So I’ve been fueling my extremely expensive urchin addiction with occasional splurges at Regalis.

Beware: Regalis is an absolute encyclopedia of luxury foods, and therefore rather dangerous. They sell everything from truffles to high end meats like Iberico ham and exotic produce like fresh wasabi. And should you be in the market for a live 7 or 8 pound red crab from Norway, they will oblige.

So Fresh!
Olio nuovo - olive oil that has just been pressed - tastes nothing like aged oil. After a couple of months it changes, losing that sprightly quality which makes it so special. Once you’ve tasted it you will long to taste it again.

This Quinta Luna oil from Umbria was just harvested in November, and it has that fresh, slightly bitter-at-the-back-of-the-throat quality. I find myself using it on everything, and I can’t imagine any cook who would not be thrilled with a bottle of this elixir.

Anne Saxelby Fund
Anne Saxelby was a woman I admired immensely, and when she passed away two years ago at the age of forty the entire cheese world went into mourning.

But they did more than that; they came together to create the Anne Saxelby Legacy Fund, an organization that funds monthlong apprenticeships on farms around the country. Apprentices get to work with some of the most impressive farmers and cheese-makers in the world; if you’re worried about the state of our food and concerned about the fate of farmers, this is a perfect charity for you.

Avocado Pit Vase
When I was a kid you stuck toothpicks into the sides of the pit and balanced it on the rim of a jar. Now there’s a better way. There are a lot of possibilities, but I think this one is both attractive and inexpensive. It would make a fine gift for an urban gardener.

Very Spicy!
I’m a fan of Burlap and Barrel’s spices; the young company keeps bringing more and more exciting blends onto the market. Now they’ve come up with a very innovative Gift Quiz: they ask a lot of questions about the person you’re sending the gift to and then suggest the perfect spices for them. It is, at the very least, a lot of fun. (And while you’re at it, check out their spice passport; it’s a brilliant idea.)